It was published in the US magazine "STUB Magazine"
In a short interview with Mayhem,
There was something I wanted to tell you all, so
I will post the information I want to share on my blog.
What everyone should know about surfboard design.
Don't waste a lot of time and money on surfing equipment that doesn't fit you!
For better surfing!
It's a short read.
This is the most excellent board theory shaper in the world right now.
Information from Matt Biolos. (STUB Magazine)
■The straight rocker on the board makes it quicker to paddle.
The paddle is an important movement that accounts for more than 50% of the game.
You can't ride a wave unless you catch it first.
Even when I was surfing with three friends on small waves,
After all, you have to compete with your friends to catch a wave.
■The shape of the tail isn't as important as you might think.
If the width towards the tail is the same, square, squash, diamond,
The swallowtail moves in a similar way.
However, round tails and pin tails have the rail line cut off,
It's a little easier to hold, making it easier to make radical turns.
■ I don't subscribe to the full-foot/front-foot theory of surfing.
I believe the basis of surfing is in how you use your back foot.
Are you a surfer with a weak back foot?
Also, he's probably a surfer with a strong back leg.
It's either you can push hard or you can't push hard.
■Look at the outline of your board.
A straight outline will move you forward quickly.
The curved outline helps you turn. Simple.
■The straighter the rocker, the further back you need to stand.
A board with rocker across the entire board has a sweet point with a larger stance.
■There is a number called the magic number.
It's the ratio of your weight to the volume of your board.
Let me explain. One of my team riders, Shea Lopez, said, "My board is so big,
He once teased me, touching my board as we headed down the aisle with cocktails in hand.
What a ugly board.' So I said, 'I'm fat and I'm 40 years old.
Do you understand what I mean? My volume to weight ratio is the same as yours.
I told him I was 30% heavier and 30% bigger than him, and that I worked in a factory and he was a professional athlete.
■Surfboards are all about balance.
Shapers are always walking a tightrope when creating your special custom order board.
If you want a board with a lot of rocker or thin rails, you need to shape it accordingly.
You have to create it with balance in mind.
If one element is extreme, the rest of the board will
It has to function to neutralize that extreme and maintain a balance.
