Today, due to the influence of the low pressure system that brought heavy rain last night, Hermosa Beach in front of the hotel was in close-out conditions with a large swell, so I drove north for about an hour this morning to a surf spot called Barranca. It's at the mouth of a river, and the goofy waves are great for riding for a very long time, and the hot break waves are more fun on a longboard than a shortboard. They said they could ride for over a minute, so Nishii and Mayhem brought Smooth Operators. Mayhem was happy that he was able to ride the wave for 1:30.
Only residents are allowed in the afternoon. We headed to the reef break that breaks on the private beach. This is a famous spot where Sieropes used to have a villa. The name of the point is Escondido. Beautiful right and left waves peak together and break to the right and left, just like the waves in Indonesia.
