This photo was taken yesterday evening at an uninhabited peak on the outside, far away in Gurubook.
The peak where it broke had a lot of water and the waves were powerful.
I forced myself to do this wave on a 5'4" RNF-Q.
The results will be in Surf First magazine!
Now we're on a plane and heading back to Bali.
See you later.I went to Bubbles Point again this morning. I woke up before dawn, had coffee and donuts loaded onto the boat, and headed out on a 30-minute boat ride. We arrived at the break at dawn and jumped into the empty sea. The session lasted about two hours. Although the size is smaller than yesterday, the quality is still the same. The rider is Mayhem. After the last session, we packed up our boards and luggage and flew on a chartered plane from Tero Island to Padang, then from Padang to Jakarta, and from Jakarta to Haneda. I'll be working at Luvsurf next week, so please come and meet me. https://youtu.be/GkyLh4lGddo
Learn moreTomorrow is the day I return to Japan, so today was my last day to surf all day. The waves were still big enough so I left early in the morning and went to a new right break reef called Bubbles. This is a reef break for experts, with waves hitting the slab and suddenly creating swells that double up and take off. The waves came suddenly, similar to the feeling of a wave pool, and it was a powerful break that quickly picked up speed even after a risky takeoff. We had a private session on some amazing waves, and the waves were so good that we went back there again in the afternoon to take some photos. I rode LOST's "RNF'96" POLY/MADE IN JAPAN. The waves were so good that I decided to get up super early tomorrow morning to surf before my flight. The quality of the waves was that good. I'll report back tomorrow. https://youtu.be/GkyLh4lGddo
Learn moreToday we set sail before dawn and headed to a new spot. I woke up early because I heard the waves were going to be bigger, but they weren't as big as I expected, so I ended up surfing at a different spot than my original destination. The right break I surfed yesterday had bigger waves than yesterday. We enjoyed a private surf session. Jay was doing some great carving on his RNF'96 Lightspeed 2. Nishii replaced the center fin of his Big Rig Driver with a small fin from the MR Twin. I tried surfing with a good release at the top and it worked surprisingly well. I'm testing how the fins on a surfboard change things. You can really get a good idea of the fins' performance by testing them on waves where you can practice reef breaks repeatedly. Nishii has lots of original fin design ideas, so please look forward to them. Also, this FUWAX cooler is the perfect GOODS for Indonesia's tropical climate! I use it with ice in it! https://youtu.be/GkyLh4lGddo
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