Today's waves are at LOWER. There is a break, but the swell is not moving in the right direction.
No one was surfing because the waves weren't as shoulder-heavy as usual.
We went to UPPER where the swell direction and waves looked good.
To surf, you have to go under the Amtrak train bridge and come out onto the sand.
Work is underway to replace the bridge.
The waves were set like this, making for a super long ride.
A few days ago, I mentioned that the terrain resembles a river mouth.
The first photo is taken around the back position in the foreground, where the person in the first photo is waiting for a wave.
You can ride this long, all the way to where the second tree is.
After that, we went to the Lost Surfboard Factory.
Kolohe 6'6" gunboard and
Also Kolohe Andino's 6'9" long,
Kolohe's about to fly to Hawaii
Mayhem was shaping boards for Pipeline.