trip
Today in San Clemente,
The waves were small yesterday, but today they're up to waist and chest height. Everyone says it's getting bigger and bigger. The US AM surfing contest will be held this week at Trestles, so no matter which point you go to in San Clemente, The level is high, with talented kids and adults who didn't go pro, and it's crowded and a real challenge. Top amateur surfers from Hawaii, Florida, and California are competing for waves. Whenever someone gets on, everyone turns around to see what they're going to do. These are swimmers from Hawaii, completely naked. The water temperature is just right for seagulls, but they don't like to wear wetsuits. Speaking of Hawaii, Mason Ho from Lost is also there. Mayhem said he's there to win the AM title. Go Mason! Oh, and his dad Michael is there too. 6/27 Update: Apparently Mason meant he was going to compete in a WQS contest. Come to think of it, Mason is already a pro, so I was mistaken.
Learn moreIt seems to reduce jet lag.
I come to LA several times a year, so I have a corporate membership with a rental car company called Hertz. So, instead of going to the reception, I took a private bus from the airport to the rental car shop. When you get off, your name and number will be displayed on the electronic display board, and you will be able to clear the long waiting reception. This time, they were kind enough to upgrade it for me. I had a black Toyota four-door car, but it was too big to fit my four-board Dakine surfboard case. I quickly changed to a Subaru Outback 4WD SUV. It's inconvenient for surfers to have a car like this. When I arrived in San Clemente, I was asked if I had a hotel reservation, but when I showed them the copy of the reservation confirmation email, I was able to go to my room without any problems... Traveling is always going to be full of trouble. The waves were knee-high and belly-high, which is what's considered flat in California. For now, I went into the water to prevent jet lag. I read in an interview with Sheeropes that surfing, getting some sun, and then sleeping helps reduce jet lag.
Learn moreNow, on to Narita and then to CALIFORNIA.
Now we are heading to Narita Airport. Destination: San Clemente, California. The main purpose of this trip is to have a business meeting with Mayhem, I will be riding the newly completed Conquest, AVISO RNF-Q. I'm going to have a surf session with Mayhem on Conquest. Also, my companion on this trip is a PLACEBO 5'10" AC-PRO. I'm looking forward to riding this one for the first time. Several of the newly arrived PLACEBO 5'10" AC-PROs have the Cory Lopez model mark on them (they're rare). Next time, we'll bring you news from California! Everyone, I'm off.
Learn moreNishii is currently in San Clemente.
Nishii is currently in San Clemente. This time, I'm in San Clemente to discuss the final design of Lost's new model, which will be sold only through authorized dealers in Japan. The concept was to develop a dream board with Mayhem that could take off from the same position as a longboard, catch a wave in just two or three paddles, and ride the biggest, best shaped waves in the set. Today, the shape of the board was completed. Mayhem will now test it and put it into production. Please look forward to it!
Learn moreThese are the waves at Imaihama.
These are the waves at Imaihama. What do you think? These are great waves. I filmed a DVD on these waves. Hamano-san, Atsushi Pro, 24, is heading to the hot springs now. At Sunship Imaihama Onsen, you can watch the waves of Imaihama while soaking in the hot springs. This is Hamano-san's back... This time, he played the role of a kind father, saying it was like a family trip with his beloved dogs, Brian and Alex. In Shirahama, the selection tournament for under 16 and 18 year olds for the NSA World Championships was to start tomorrow, so I went to watch it in the evening. There was a party going on in the sea with the kids! Standing in the foreground is Atsushi Productions, who are currently filming a DVD that they are producing. Young surfers from all over the country, who are sure to be active in Japan's upcoming contest scene, were surfing energetically!
Learn more"Yamatoism" produced by Imamura Atsushi Productions
We are now leaving for Izu. When I was choosing which surfboards I wanted to ride, I ended up with six. It's been a while since I've been to Izu, so I'm looking forward to it. The east swell and northeasterly winds are expected, so the waves look good. This time, I have been asked to appear in a surf movie titled "Yamatoism" produced by Imamura Atsushi, so I will be heading out to film it. Professional photographer Katsumata also joined us for the photography. Impiancu Productions will be in charge of production. We will update you on the waves and photography conditions in Izu next time, so please look forward to it! Well then.
Learn moreI just returned from my Indonesia trip today.
I just returned from my Indonesia trip today. This is a photo taken at the beach for a Dakine advertisement. The colors are so beautiful at sunset. Photographer Aoki-san took the photo shown here. The silhouette in the center of the photo is Mr. Aoki. Aoki is also famous as a photographer. He is the lead guitarist and composer for the band Test Riders. Did you know? This is a photo I took this morning over Japan. I took this photo from my seat on Garuda Airlines. As time passed, it became brighter and brighter. The bumps at the bottom of the photo are clouds. I hope that humans can continue to live on this beautiful Earth we live on forever.
Learn moreFrom Lombok to Bali.
This photo was taken yesterday evening at an uninhabited peak on the outside, far away in Gurubook. The peak where it broke had a lot of water and the waves were powerful. I forced myself to do this wave on a 5'4" RNF-Q. The results will be in Surf First magazine! Now we're on a plane and heading back to Bali. See you later.
Learn moreFrom Starbucks on Kuta Legian Street
This blog is updated from Starbucks on KUTA Legian Street. This is the familiar KUTA local Donald surfing. We are at ISTARAMA Hotel in Kuta Beach. Today's waves at Kuta Beach. It's empty with light onshore chest-high waves. This morning I had a private session with no filming. With Satoshi as our guide, we went with Honjo, Kumagai, Oshima, and no one else. Private surfing at a secret parking spot. The low tide is a dangerous reef, but the waves improved heading into the high tide. If you take off from behind the peak on a right wave, you can get into the tube. Nice waves here! I'm flying home tonight on Garuda Airlines.
Learn more