Today's LOWERS. The waves are smaller, but still good.
This is a wave checkpoint at State Park, a beach break in San Clemente.
Looking across the street you can see the San Clemente Pier.
The waves were small so I was checking out the waves.
In the car ahead of us, we spotted Chris Ward checking the same thing.
Where should I surf? When the waves are small like this in San Clemente,
We decided to go to Oceanside, so we got in Chris' car and headed there.
The surfing took place at River Mouth at Southside Jetty in Oceanside.
This photo was taken from the top of the jetty, and the Oceanside Pier can be seen in the distance.
Chris looked at my round-nosed 5'11" test board instead of the 5'10" F1-STUB he had in his car.
"Why don't you change your board?" he asked, and went into the ocean.
Then he started surfing like crazy, so I got out and started filming.
The waves are as soft as those in Japan,
He seemed to be in good shape, riding the board hard and surfing with such sharpness that it was hard to believe it was his first time riding the board.
Afterwards, while eating, we talked about board design and recent topics,
It's been a while since we had a chance to talk at length.
