"Mason Ho's First Teahupo'o"
All of Mason's boards were very small and made for waves with a lip.
I guess they were planning to do something about the board on site.
He didn't have a board. He was kind of stressed out trying to find a board to ride the waves there. He was on the phone almost all night asking different people to try and get him a board, and eventually Judson Andre got him one.
It was a board that was in the garage where we were staying.
It was 6'8", clearly too big a board for Mason, but he did it.
We went out in the boat with great force in the big waves.
There were a lot of people paddling around trying to tow in.
It was a cloudy day with big waves, a completely terrifying situation.
If that makes sense, it always breaks in roughly the same place, on the south side, so we went down there and sat and watched from the boat.
Mason was trembling and screaming.
I could see from his eyes that he really wanted to go.
In fact, he ended up injuring his arm during the first wave.
but,
I shook that off and rode several more trains.
Tie up with the most frozen one,
He gave us the peace sign in the barrel.
After the session he said:
"I don't know why I've never been here before in my life!
This is my new favorite wave."
His leg was bleeding and injured, but Mason kept surfing, as expected.
Currently in Portugal, the WSL is aiming for the world title with Julian Wilson.
In the R2 heat,
Relax and enjoy the experience of free surfing with tubes and air.
Mason, who achieved a big victory,
He follows Ward's animal-inspired surfing style and is a surfer who is typical of the LOST team.
