Blog
After the last session, we will now fly to Japan.
I went to Bubbles Point again this morning. I woke up before dawn, had coffee and donuts loaded onto the boat, and headed out on a 30-minute boat ride. We arrived at the break at dawn and jumped into the empty sea. The session lasted about two hours. Although the size is smaller than yesterday, the quality is still the same. The rider is Mayhem. After the last session, we packed up our boards and luggage and flew on a chartered plane from Tero Island to Padang, then from Padang to Jakarta, and from Jakarta to Haneda. I'll be working at Luvsurf next week, so please come and meet me. https://youtu.be/GkyLh4lGddo
Learn morePrivate session at the high quality reef break "Bubbles"!
Tomorrow is the day I return to Japan, so today was my last day to surf all day. The waves were still big enough so I left early in the morning and went to a new right break reef called Bubbles. This is a reef break for experts, with waves hitting the slab and suddenly creating swells that double up and take off. The waves came suddenly, similar to the feeling of a wave pool, and it was a powerful break that quickly picked up speed even after a risky takeoff. We had a private session on some amazing waves, and the waves were so good that we went back there again in the afternoon to take some photos. I rode LOST's "RNF'96" POLY/MADE IN JAPAN. The waves were so good that I decided to get up super early tomorrow morning to surf before my flight. The quality of the waves was that good. I'll report back tomorrow. https://youtu.be/GkyLh4lGddo
Learn moreToday we set sail before dawn and headed to a new spot.
Today we set sail before dawn and headed to a new spot. I woke up early because I heard the waves were going to be bigger, but they weren't as big as I expected, so I ended up surfing at a different spot than my original destination. The right break I surfed yesterday had bigger waves than yesterday. We enjoyed a private surf session. Jay was doing some great carving on his RNF'96 Lightspeed 2. Nishii replaced the center fin of his Big Rig Driver with a small fin from the MR Twin. I tried surfing with a good release at the top and it worked surprisingly well. I'm testing how the fins on a surfboard change things. You can really get a good idea of the fins' performance by testing them on waves where you can practice reef breaks repeatedly. Nishii has lots of original fin design ideas, so please look forward to them. Also, this FUWAX cooler is the perfect GOODS for Indonesia's tropical climate! I use it with ice in it! https://youtu.be/GkyLh4lGddo
Learn more6-hour private barrel session at GT Point!
6-hour private barrel session at GT Point! The forecast said that the wave size would increase slightly from today, so we took a 45-minute boat ride to a regular reef break called GT. We had the place to ourselves for six hours, taking turns in private sessions, hitting barrel waves nonstop for six hours at a spot where no one else was surfing. The waves were barreling on a shallow reef, and some people were slightly injured. On the way back, all the children were so tired that they slept like dead animals in the boat. From Ellie, the photographer who spent 6 hours swimming and taking underwater photos. Once I receive the photos I will post them! https://youtu.be/GkyLh4lGddo
Learn moreToday I surfed at two different spots.
It's the second day since we arrived at Tero Resort and we're off to surf. Today I surfed at two different spots. One location has two reef breaks, a goofy one and a regular one. The people at the resort told me that the waves on this day were the smallest of the season, so I used a Placebo 5'4" round nose round surfboard, but even though they were small, overhead waves were coming in while I was waiting for a set. This area of Indonesia is sunny all year round. Mayhem has the power to cut the leash. There are many islands, so there are points where the wind direction is always offshore, so I'm looking forward to surfing there in the future.
Learn moreNishii arrived at Tero Island in Indonesia.
Nishii arrived at Tero Island in Indonesia. We met up with MAHYEM and the others from Bali at Jakarta Airport in Indonesia. We flew to Padang and arrived at Tero Island on a chartered plane. I left Japan last Tuesday and changed planes three times. The last charter plane they were to board suffered a flat tire on the runway. Normally it would have arrived after two nights and three days, but it arrived on Friday, three nights and four days later. This is one of the few areas in Indonesia where you can enjoy private surfing due to its difficult access. Please look forward to the report on the remaining 8 days. https://youtu.be/GkyLh4lGddo
Learn moreWhat board did Nishii bring to the Mentawai?
What board did Nishii bring to the Mentawai? LOST 『RMF'96』POLY LONG TOE 5'4" x 19.25 x 2.33 27.25cl PLACEBO "RAD DIABLO2.0" FLEXLITE ULTIMATE6 5' 8" x 19.50" x 2.32" 27.5cl LOST『SMOOTH OPEARTOR』BLACK SHEEP BUILT 6' 4" x 20.25" x 2.63" 36.55cl I brought a lot of fins and tested them over a 10-day round. We also discovered a great setting on the hollow waves of a reef break with wave quality that you can't ride in Japan! https://www.luvsurf.co.jp/model/?model_brand=PLACEBO
Learn moreI'm surfing with the next generation of LOST.
In addition to Nishii and his son, Mayhem, the other members of this trip include members of Lost Indonesia. Among them is Pete Frieden, president of Lost Indonesia, a former famous surfing photographer. He is surfing alongside the next generation of LOST, including LOST team rider Kalani Ryan, who recently won the Rip Curl Grom Search, and Dylan Wilcoxen, son of Kandui Resort and said to be Indonesia's next Mason Ho.
Learn more